Another early start on our trip mostly because our guesthouse kindly offered to serve us breakfast at 7:30, earlier than usual so that our food could settle in time for our whale trip. 78 on 5^th does 2 plated courses of breakfast. The first was muesli, yogurt and fruit drizzled with honey and served in a little dessert bowl accompanied by freshly squeezed orange juice. This guesthouse was priced at pretty much the same as all our other accommodation but I really appreciated the effort in making a plated hot breakfast that wasn’t just bacon and eggs. We had an open egg omelette on a slice of toast topped with homemade tomato and onion sauce, shaved smoked ham and mature cheddar cheese – all grilled in the oven.

And then it was off to the most excited part of our trip – whale watching! Although November marks the end of the whale season in Hermanus, we still managed to see quite a few whales close up and some calves jumping around in the waters closer to shore. We spent about 2 hours on a rocky boat with Whalewatchers. The tour guide explained how the whales come in to the bay and gave us a good overview of whales in general. They even went searching for whales so that we could get the best views and photos.

We were originally going to have lunch at Bientang’s Cave, known as one of the best spots on land to watch whales from. Having just marvelled at the whales so closely, we opted for Dutchies instead. It’s a beach café/bar so you can refuel here after spending time at the beach. I’ve been having so much seafood on this trip but the menu wasn’t very exciting so I opted for a seafood platter for lunch. I definitely did not make a bad choice! I am not a big eater but I wiped that platter clean and would have had more if there was.

Since Dutchies is on the beach, we took the liberty of walking along the blue flag beach. The waters were freezing cold! It’s hard to imagine that the same Indian Ocean brings in the warm waters in Durban.

For the first time on our trip, we actually had a pool to swim in and relax for a bit. I realised when I was back in Joburg that this time was meant to be for horse riding on the beach. As much as I wanted to see and experience everything, I realised that I was on holiday to relax and chilling on the pool loungers was a great way to do just that.

We planned on going to Lizette's for supper for Vietnamese - African fusion cuisine. Unfortunately, it was closed so we settled on Geckos – a bar at the new harbour. Set on the edge of the harbour, the sunset setting was the perfect accompaniment to the singer providing live entertainment. I left that night feeling so happy that I chose to spend the entire night being entertained by a live singer without the worry that I need to get home for a good night’s rest before work the next day. Ah, the dream of freedom…

We woke up really early to say goodbye to a very dreary Knysna. I wasn’t particularly looking forward to the 450km drive to Hermanus as I do long trips like that from Joburg to Durban all the time and it’s really tiring.

Not too far from Knysna, we drove into Wilderness and managed to find our way to a residential beach. There were a couple of people standing on the shore fishing and a few others standing on the rocks for a photo shoot. Now I’ve seen so many beaches on this trip but this was a stunning beach. The waters here just gush in pretty quickly and before you know it, the waves come crashing to your dry feet and the water’s almost halfway up your legs.

After picking up some shells, we hit the road again for a few minutes until my boyfriend drove in to a look-out point along the N2 – of the same beach we just standing on! Looking at the beach from up high, it looked so tame in comparison to the strong current we experienced earlier. From up high, we could see all the way down the long stretch of beach and the river mouth feeding into the beach. With the bright sunshine, it’s amazing to see the different colours from far into the ocean though to the shore and where it meets the river. It was definitely the best view of the garden route along the N2.

We headed off again and this time the dreary weather gave way to rain so we didn’t stop anyway else for a very long time. After battling against the sleep that was tempting me, we stopped in Swellendam for lunch. There aren’t many restaurants in the area and we eventually settled on a very quiet place called The Old Mill restaurant. Granted, the entire area is very quiet – it’s like everyone prefers to stay indoors. The Old Mill had a beautiful outside area that feels like Spring. We settled on a burger and a pie and hit the road again.

Finally, we arrived at the offramp to Hermanus and while we were still 30km away, it was still exciting. After all, I was most looking forward to this part of the Garden Route trip. But the excitement was delayed by road works where we drove for about 15km on a gravel road in a little Figo. It appears that new roads are being developed and old roads need to be re-tarred. So if you are heading to Hermanus from Knysna, try using the next offramp to avoid the off-road drives.

I was so happy with our room when we arrived at 78 on 5^th. It was clean and white and spacious. It’s a mountain-facing room which I wasn’t too happy about earlier. I since realised that Hermanus is quite flat so unless you’re living on the beach, the sea-facing rooms generally look out to other houses between you and the beach. The view of the mountain was amazing and the heated pool was right outside my door.

While there were a few hours of sunlight left, we decided to check out the old harbour. Spectacular views again around the bay except this time the rocks are so big and flat that you can walk on them and feel like you’re at the edge of a cliff.

Supper was at the fancy La Pentola. Situated along the waterfront, it has stunning view of the bay. What I like most about this restaurant is that you don’t have to sit at the window to get the best view. As in proper fine dining, portions here are small so feel free to have all 3 courses.

This day ended with me walking to my car frozen! Even in summer, the winds are cold in the Western Cape so be sure to carry a jacket in case you need it. 

We were meant to go on a romantic sunset cruise on the lagoon the previous day but the weather didn’t allow for it. On this day, we made sure to book the first ferry cruise, with The Featherbed Company, just in case the weather turned later in the day. Our ferry cruised around the lagoon and through to the Knysna heads. This is definitely a must-do in Knysna. The views are stunning and the guide gives a very good overview of the lagoon and the surrounding areas.

Afterwards we drove around Leisure Island up to viewing points on the East Head to check out the view from the top. Stunning cliff face drops and breath-taking views of the ocean meeting the lagoon. The views are definitely worth the windy-ness at the top.

Before that, we tried to have lunch at Freshline Fisheries which is situated in the lagoon’s dockyard. They serve all sorts of seafood which you can buy raw and take home. You could also choose your fish and have it prepared either “grilled, fried or Weskus braai-ed”. There’s also the menu which has your usual seafood menu items. We tried a scallop salad with sundried tomatoes and red onion and a Weskus braaied kob. Another highly recommended restaurant you should try. The freshness of the fish really comes out in the taste and the restaurant has a chilled beach bar vibe. The food is also really good value for money – about a third cheaper than what you’d expect to pay in Joburg.

We took a walk around town which was really a waste of time. There’s nothing much to do or see. Even the coffee shops are a bit sad.

For supper, we tried Pembreys on the other side of the Lagoon. The restaurant is situated in a pretty garden-like environment. It is a fine dining establishment and their menu is written on a blackboard which is quite unique. I had a delicious crab and dill ravioli and the boyfriend had a perfectly done Springbok fillet in a blueberry sauce. If you’re into experiencing the fine dining that Knysna has to offer, this is a great option to try. That marked the end of our stay in Knysna. 

After just one rainy night in Stormsriver, we left the next morning to see the Stormsriver Bridge since I missed it on account of the rain. The bridge is the N2 which cuts through an amazing mountain way with a valley below. We parked at the petrol station and there are pathways to guide you along both sides of the highway where you can see the rock face, the greenery sloping all the way down into a little river below. It is absolutely breath-taking. Even more incredible was imagining how they built the N2 over this so many years ago, still managing to retain the natural wonder and including pathways for people to view this.

After lots of looking down, we went to look up at the Big Tree. It’s about 2km from the Stormsriver Bridge off the N2. We paid a small entry fee to get into a nature reserve and walked around until we found some very big trees. The Big Tree is 1000 years old and preserved in this reserve. Although this didn’t take too long, it was a bit of a walk…in nature…which I hate, so if a nature reserve isn’t your thing, you can leave this out of your itinerary.

Our next stop was in Plettenberg Bay – just to walk on the beach and collect shells. We marvelled at Beacon Island which I don’t think is really considered an island but it is surrounded by water. There’s a little bridge connecting the Plettenberg Bay beach to the island but you can easily wade through the water to get there too. This stop was just to walk along the beach which is an everyday must if you’re driving along the coast.

We hit the road again and detoured off the N2 into Knysna. A pretty little area filled with tons of vegetation and a huge lagoon. We stayed at the Protea Guesthouse which had an amazing view of the lagoon.

We headed to the Knysna waterfront which has apparently deteriorated over the years. Having never experienced what it was like before, I thought it was pretty awesome. Boats leave from the waterfront to cruise on the lagoon daily and the restaurants all look out on to the lagoon. There are many shops (read: tourist traps) to browse through. I actually bought some stunning pearl jewellery from a little gem jeweller there.

We had lunch at Drydock. Since we were on the coast we opted for seafood. I had the catch of the day which was gurnard, a fish I hadn’t tasted before. It was delicious and juicy. My boyfriend has a fish soup which had a number of different types of seafood swimming in a tasty broth.

We initially wanted to stay at Thesen Island but it the rates are way too expensive for the working class to afford. Nonetheless, there are other things to do on this island, like supper at Knysna Tapas and Oysters. I’m used to eating oysters raw accompanied with a squeeze of lemon and a drop of tabasco sauce the way it is served at the Oyster festivals in Jozi. I had no clue that oysters could be served any other way. This restaurant boasted an award winning oyster dish, oyster chiquila, which was a cultivated oyster with tequila sauce, japaleno mayo, cucumber and red caviar. They also serve grilled and tempura oysters along with oysters served the good old fashioned way. I can simply say that I am now a fan of oysters that aren’t served plain. We had lots of other tasty tapas at this joint with extremely friendly service. I definitely recommend this place.

Although we spent 2 days in Knysna, I think Knysna could have been experienced in one day. Although, the two days did make it all the more relaxing. 

After experiencing the slow pace of PE, the kindness of the locals and the sheer beauty of the city, I was quite sad to leave. With a full itinerary planned, we picked up our rental Figo from Avis and hit the road. Our first stop was Jeffrey’s Bay for lunch before spending the night in Stormsriver.

I’m really not much of a holiday planner. I only did the Garden Route because the boyfriend suggested it and he also planned our itinerary. Knowing nothing about the route apart from it starting in PE and ending in Cape Town, I was blown away just by the short drive. The N2 is flanked by lush greenery. It seems like someone regularly mows the grass along the highway. Trees are planted along the road with such precision that they either neatly sit along the road or arch over the road. It was by far the prettiest long distance drive I’ve ever taken.

I highly recommend that everyone drives from PE to Jeffrey’s Bay. As we got closer, we were met with the most amazing view of the shoreline along the bay. There were stunning views all around as we drove around the bay which seemed so full. It’s deep blue in colour and seems like a really deep beach filled to the brim with dark turquoise water. We stopped at some of the unmarked viewing points.  I actually think those “viewing points” and walkways to the beach are for the residents but it was thoroughly awesome taking in the sheer beauty of it all before walking along the beach. I love beaches with rocks at the shoreline; it just makes the beach unique. The current wasn’t that strong so it didn’t feel dangerous to hop on top of the rocks further into the sea. There were tons of shells washed up to shore so it made it a bit difficult to walk but gave a chance to grab a handful of shells as a memento of my trip. I proceeded to collect shells at all my beach destinations on this trip.

If I knew how gorgeous Jeffrey’s Bay was, I would have totally stayed here instead of Stormsriver. Well we decided to make the most of the time we had by finding the beach the local surfers seemed to love frequenting. It was quite odd that there aren’t any hotdog vendors nearby. I would have preferred grabbing a hot dog and sitting on a bench at the beach instead. We had lunch at a cosy little fish joint with a sign outside that said they had the best calamari in town. Yoh! They were not lying about it. We snacked on a fish, prawn and calamari basket but in hindsight, we should have just ordered the calamari on its own.

We panicked slightly when we saw the time. It was almost 5 and almost closing time for the Billabong factory shop. We still managed to get there before the store closed although we were rather rushed to pick our items, pay for them and leave. I didn’t even try on my clothes. I know this is a small town but they should really consider extending their opening hours for tourists especially when it’s still bright until about 7pm. There are tons of other surfer type brands with factory shops and concept stores which were all closed by the time we were done.

We bid farewell to Jeffrey’s Bay and made our way back down the N2 to Stormsriver. It felt like we were driving directly into a storm. The weather looked really bad so we decided not to stop at the Stormsriver Bridge and headed directly to the At The Woods guesthouse. The lodge looks exactly as what was portrayed on the website: a wooden lodge in the woods. It started raining the moment we checked it to I was glad we didn’t stop at the Stormsriver bridge even though I was filled with the regret the further we drove from it.

For supper we tried out Tsitsikamma Village Inn which has one restaurant but essentially 2 locations not too far from each other. The one was a quite cosy restaurant which was packed. The other one was a quieter sports bar cum café which I preferred. We had a light meal and headed back to our room for a quiet warm night…excited about the next day and tired from the previous day.

Through Diwali festivities, daily visits to the temple and visiting practically everyone in Malabar, I managed to squeeze in a day of exploring PE.

We started out at the Donkin Reserve. It’s a little park to commemorate the history of PE and struggles of South Africa. We mostly walked through the park and checked out the little statues representing things from our past that shapes what South Africa is today. There’s also an old lighthouse on the premises. I’d never been inside a lighthouse so I was very keen to pay R5 to check it out. Bad idea! Lighthouses were designed for 10 year old boys, I think. To get to the top, you have to climb dozens of stairs which spiral and keep getting steeper and narrower. I also managed to bump my head on the way up. Once we got up there it was all worth it: 360 degree views of the city. You can see the entire Donkin reserve including where all the new artworks are still to be added. The view of the harbour from up there is stunning and there were tons of PE landmarks that my boyfriend pointed out to me. 

The lighthouse I climbed

Artsy stuff on Donkin Reserve

 

Amandla!

Apparently the biggest flag in the country

Beautiful artwork depicting our past

Loved these headline type billboards filled with quotes

A close-up of the billboard

A view of the Donkin Reserve from the lighthouse

A view of the harbour from the lighthouse

A cute little walking trail from town to the Donkin Reserve

Next was a trip to the South End Museum. I love to know about the history of a place when I visit it. This doesn’t give you an overview of how PE came in to being but it shed some light into how the Group Areas Act affected people of colour in PE. This museum is specific to PE but its representative of how the Act was effected everywhere in South Africa, the things people were involved in before they were forcible removed, how they were moved and how their lives mostly took a turn for the worse.

After that I desperately needed some cheering up. What better way to do that than to take a stroll on the beach. PE boasts blue flag beaches but they are freezing cold. This is still the Indian Ocean; what happened to their warm Benguela current? For those who don’t want to get wet, the promenade is stunning. There are tons to see and do.

Within walking distance of the beach is the Boardwalk Casino. I don’t enjoy idling time away in front of a slot machine but I did enjoy sitting at a cafe near the musical water feature. It’s pretty much like Brightwater Commons musical water fountains; only better! The fountains shoot water high into the air in various spirals and forms all in tune to some awesome music. It was a pity it was only 10 minutes though. I would have loved to enjoy a longer show.

Everyone in PE has given me the nod of approval so it seems like I’ll definitely be going back. Is there anything else in PE that you really enjoy? Leave a comment and let me know so I can try it out next time I’m there.

The idea of the Garden Route trip came about when I decided to spend Diwali with my boyfriend’s HUGE family in Port Elizabeth. Since it was my first time in PE and the Eastern Cape, we thought it would be a great idea to travel along the Garden Route. Since the Garden Route starts in PE, we decided to continue down that path through to Cape Town in order to fly back home.

After meeting practically all of PE and loving everyone’s hospitality, we spent some time being tourists and doing some things that even my boyfriend hadn’t experienced while living in PE for 18 years.

We then headed to Tsitsikamma. I remember having little postcards from all over South Africa when I was little. I loved the Tsitsikamma photos but I really didn’t know much about the area. Seeing the beautiful scenery was way better than imagining it through postcard photos.

I’ve always wanted to go to Knysna because of William Smith punting it during A Word or 2 and because that’s where oysters come from. I’m not a fan of oysters but I figure it’s always better to try out food from where they are sourced. I often find that certain foods taste different when shipped off to Joburg.

After spending two days in Knysna, we headed off to Hermanus. When I last went to Cape Town I so desperately wanted to see whales. None of my friends were keen on it so I shelved that dream for a while. This time I marvelled at seeing these gigantic creatures and learning all about them.

Franschhoek was the last destination on our trip. While I love Cape Town, I have been there a few times so I figured I’d experience the winelands instead. I imagine France to be like Franschoek in terms of food, the look of the streets and of course, the amazing rows of vines in bloom.

The Cape Town airport signalled the end of my trip. Over the next few days, I’ll blog about my trip in a bit more detail. For now, I’m already dreaming of my next road trip – I just don’t know where. If you have any ideas, please leave a comment on this post. 

I think I actually started writing about this hotel while I was staying in it for business back in June. And then…life happened. Nonetheless I decided to revive what I wrote as it was my first experience in Africa (outside of South Africa that is).

For two weeks, the Southern Sun Hotel was home in Maputo. I generally prefer staying at boutique hotels as I always feel like I receive a more authentic experience in new city. But in a city that is completely different to what I am accustomed to, I appreciate staying with a big hotel brand where you know you’ll receive a level of service that you’re used to.

I arrived in Maputo in the middle of the night, tired and ready for bed and as soon as I checked in, I hated my hotel room. For a hotel on the beach, the view from my room was that of the street. I very quickly received assistance from reception who promised to move me once sea-facing rooms were available. And boy did they live up to their promise. I cannot imagine any scenery better to wake up to than the sound of gentle waves against the shore and the sunlight peering into my room. It even contributed to my mood as I woke up happy every day.

My colleague told me that Southern Sun Maputo was undoubtedly the best hotel a few years ago. Since then many other hotels have popped up in the city and along the beachfront. Unlike the other hotels along the beachfront though, this one is right on the shore so you needn’t walk far to experience the beautiful beaches that Mozambique boasts about. The only downside is that it’s not a private beach and at times my seaside sounds were disrupted with locals holding very loud prayer sessions on the beach.

Although Maputo is not far from South Africa, it’s completely different to what I’m used to – the culture, the amenities and the language. It is so difficult to find someone who speaks English on the streets but at the hotel, I was so grateful that everyone spoke my language. The staff were so friendly and ever willing to help you learn a few Portuguese words…which comes in handy when you’re hungry in a café and all the foods have Portuguese names.

The common areas of the hotel had a pretty modern décor but the rooms were in serious need of some renovation. Some rooms had a damp smell to it whilst others just needed a fresh coat of paint applied to the cupboards and some handles on the drawers. All that didn’t matter when I opened my room window and was embraced by amazing weather, birds chirping and gentle waves…

Room service, although looked great, didn’t taste as good as sitting in and ordering at the hotel restaurant. For dinner, I’d recommend the tiger prawns – the biggest prawns I’ve ever seen. Even better was the usual English and continental breakfast with some Portuguese cuisine. The giblets and livers were delicious and there were scrumptious Portuguese custard pastries that I couldn’t get enough of.

Overall, I enjoyed my stay. Although I’d like to try out another hotel during my next visit to Mozambique, I’d gladly come back here for the mouth-watering breakfasts, the beachfront location, friendly service and stunning ocean view. 

I used to be quite fit back in the day and then life happened and here I am; fat and unfit without having regularly exercised in almost 2 years!

A friend recently heard about Les Mills Bodycombat, a new fitness class at Planet Fitness. She loved it so much after one class that she decided to join the gym just for that. Since it's just recently beeb launched in South Africa, they are promoting the class by offering a free guest pass. My friend decided to take me along with her. 

I was pretty excited after seeing the video. It looked like a rock concert - so upbeat and so much fun. Also it was a free class - who wouldn't love that. The only problem is that I'm not a fan of large gyms. Their selling point is that they are relatively cheap and have all the resources, equipment and trainers that you would need. I am just not sold on the level of trainers at gyms. I've found that most trainers have basic training experience and because they need to tailor classes to the majority (who are just looking for a workout), it's hard to be able to learn some of the more advanced or specific exercises, routines, etc. I find a lot more value at a yoga or pilates studio than similar trainers in a gym. 

Well Le Mills comes in three types of classes. The one I picked is called Body Combat and is quite cardio intensive. Think high paced kick boxing so lots of non-stop movement to get your heart rate up and your body sweating. As unfit as I am, I was able to keep up with the class so it's definitely not too hectic for beginners. The trainer introduces movements, stances and exercises inspired from combat skills and that just made it all the more fun. I absolutely loved the music and how the trainer choreographed our moves in time with the song. It also feels so much more satisfying to end a set or routine as the song ends with a bang.

Afterwards, I felt great. Because of my joint issues, I wouldn't go back until my joints are a bit more strengthened. I do believe though that this is an excellent class to try out before signing up for a gym membership. If you have any friends at Planet Fitness, ask them to pick up a guest pass for you. 

I'm on a mission to get my fitness levels back up so if you know of any new studios, classes or clubs that I should be joining, let me know - I'd love to try it out.  

After blogging about my salmon and caviar stuffed potatoes recipe, Abba generously offered to give me some of their products to give away to my readers on my blog.

Abba Seafood has launched a number of different Norwegian products in South Africa. They are retailing at the major supermarkets and I've seen the products stocked at Spar and they are reasonably priced.

The most exciting product is the caviar. I can't say that I've ever seen caviar sold in supermarkets and I've only ever eaten them topped on sushi. Next time you're inviting guests over, what nicer way to impress them by getting a little jar of caviar to use as a garnish or even spread on top of crackers. It just gives entertaining that touch of opulence. Abba caviar comes in both black and red.

The Abba seafood range is designed to be used in canapes. It comes in small jar and a little goes a long way. My favourite of the range is the herring. It comes in following flavours: marinated with dill, in mustard sauce and in garlic sauce. I liked the Sweddish herring in garlic sauce on top of crackers. It's creamy and goes down deliciously. Eating it on it's own wasn't to my liking but then again I don't have a palate for the finer foods.

The seafood spreads are pretty cool. I had a wrap with creamed salmon spread on it and filled with lettuce and other healthy stuff. It's great if you want a hint of flavour without eating the actual fish. The spreads come in creamed salmon, creamed tuna and mild creamed fish roe.

I have 4 packs of all of these products to give away. You can win 3 jars of red and black caviar each, 2 jars of herring and 2 spreads. Winning is easy. All you have to do is enter via Rafflecopter below.

As the products need to be kept refrigerated, this competition is only open to readers within Johannesburg. a Rafflecopter giveaway